Monday, March 28, 2011

Road Trip: Charleston

ROAD TRIP: A Northerner's Exploration of the Dirty, Dirty!

Projected Itinerary: Charleston, SC to Apollo Beach, FL to Asheville, NC
Actual Itinerary: Georgetown, SC to Charleston, SC to Apollo Beach, FL to Athens, GA to Asheville, NC

Part One: Charleston
Our trip to Charleston began quite slowly...3 and 1/2 hour delay between Baltimore and D.C. - we ended up in Georgetown over night Friday, and on our way to Charleston Saturday (already a night behind!).

One of my best girlfriends lives in Charleston (as you may recall from a previous entry...) and, to my surprise, she effectively helped me to re-evaluated my previous opinion on the place. Charleston happens to be very lovely and a ton a fun!

We got there on Saturday and headed straight out to the newest brewery in town. Westbrook Brewing Co. is located about 10 minutes outside Charleston in Mt. Pleasant (Go Green Knights!). It's brand spankin' new - and it smelled like it: refreshingly clean, new wood scented, immaculately undamaged bar. Pretty convivial tasting room - complete with handsome brewmaster, sorority-style barmaids, and a Neil Patrick-Harris look-a-like busboy. We waited patiently for the next tour to depart. The handsome brewmaster summoned the tourists to the a door leading from the tasting room into a sterile, warehouse-like brewery. His passion and knowledge about brewing was delightful and very informative. The tour was fun, interactive, and educational (can't ask for much more than that). This guy - Smith Mathews - has the potential to do some really great things with this place. He's seems to be a super-creative guy (being an adamant home-brewer before his endeavors as a master) explaining to the tour members the process of how he decides flavors combination and brewing inspiration! As I write, he's working on brewing a test batch of an ultra-spiced red Flemish ale! This is going to be spot to watch in the next couple of years.


As for their beers, definitely some good foundation ales - but technique is still being developed. The IPA is reminiscent of a sessioned-down 60-minute. A little lighter, not as bold, but super tasty and drinkable. The Oatmeal Stout on the other hand was a little too burnt, a little too bitter, and a little not oatmealy.....weird. But it seems to me these guys are just getting started on these quirkier styles - White Thai was pretty neat tasting and different with Coriander, Orange, and Cardamom. All-in-all, our experience at this new and upcoming brewery was excellent.

When we got back into town, Jes gave us the walking tour of Charleston proper. We parked down town and our first stop (primarily in search of the closest bathroom) was Baked - a quasi-famous bakery and coffee shop on East Bay street. We had a great shot of espresso, a marginal whoopie pie, and a DELECTABLE Sea Salt Brownie (officially called Sweet & Salty Brownie).

After our desert, we searched for dinner. Jestine's Kitchen, on the corner of Meeting and Wentworth Streets, found us well. The small, quaint atmosphere put me in the mood for the SOUTHAN COOKIN'! The joint seemed pretty popular as the method of seating was typical of a crowded Newark bar - one in, one out. The line wrapped around the corner while the dinner hour approached. We sat and within minutes, our table was populated food I'd only seen in a magazines (or watched movies about...): fried green tomatoes, hush puppies (REAL ONES), sweat tea, collard greens, vinegar garlic pepper sauce, grits! An excellent introduction to what was on the menu for the next week.

Dinner ended abruptly - as we planned our escape before the rain started up again - and on our way back to the car, we stopped in a great beer store. Called The Exchange, the store was chocked full of Terrapin, Mikkeller, New Belgium, and Fat Tire. My friend, who is commissioning a book on the history of brewing in Charleston, engaged the owner in a conversation about the history of his store. He told us stories of hidden tunnels, speakeasies, and where the first shot of the Civil War was shot. Pretty exciting stuff. We bought a few Ranger IPAs, 2 cans of G'Knight, 2 Fat Tires, a Full Sail IPA, a Big Worse bomber.

We did make it out to a local watering hole. Closed for Business had an incredible tap list. We enjoyed Terrapin's Big Hoppy Monster (Imperial Red Ale) and Big Vladdy Daddy (Russian Imperial Stout, aduh!) followed by a New Belgium Mighty Arrow (so effing good).

On Sunday we ate brunch (by suggestion of Anthony Bourdain and our hostess) at Hominy Grill. The huevos rancheros, though sending my stomach into an uproar, was wildly good. A successful brunch was followed by an equally successful (and historical!) trip to Fort Sum(p)t(n)er. And the day was closed with a slice and Dale's Pale Ale at Mellow Mushroom.

Charleston...
A City That Isn't As Shitty As I Thought :)

THANKS JES!!!! <3


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